TiN
09-24-2011, 10:45 AM
Coming soon...
Intro
Most of "professional" overclockers get used to receive confidential OC guides for different videocard and motherboard OC experience. By wording professional i meant here those people who
get benefits or samples for their testing and extreme overclocking events and gatherings. Usually there are always some hints and/or tools which are not public showed to fellow overclockers.
But from other side, I was also on side of pure power users, who are used to get stuff done by themselves first, sometimes with small help from outside.
That's in my meaning, PURE overclocking and tweaking, to understand the basics, then to apply discovered theory on practice, and finally get some results. Results by itself is
not even much important, but fun and process of achievement is the target. So to encourage those who want push Classified 580 beyond borders I will share some hits here, which
I discovered during few month of testing card. Overclockers are free to repost this data, but I would be thankful if they could keep original link to KPC and evga.com forums intact.
First, few words about most of overclockers/gamers who may want to overclock this card without crazy extreme stuff.
Overclocking with stock cooling, aircooling or watercooling is generally same as other GTX 580 cards, with few notes:
■ All three PCIe power plugs must be connected (8pin + 8pin + 6pin)
That's going from hardwired VRM curcuitry used. During extreme overclocking with GPU voltage above 1.4V GTX580 can take more than 700W (http://kingpincooling.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1203) of power, pushing power supply +12V rails to their limits on most of 1k-1.2kW models. So if we have just two rails from PSU connected to such overclocked monster - they can reach shutdown trigger by OCP, which will make overclocking session end. So extra 6-pin plug is there to give user ability to connect third rail to make power distribution on PSU rails easier.
■ DO NOT switch to OC mode until you want to use EVBot (even if you running subzero chilled/phasechange).
OC mode is dedicated specially for deep subzero temperatures below -50°C, when you actually need disabling protection functions like OCP, OVP.
Also OC mode blocks GPU from communication with VRM, so voltage control is fixed to EVBot settings and do not change during whole run.
That was made to allow even beginner extreme overclockers reach decent results without any need of soldering or other geek stuff, but as drawback increase risk if card overheat ;)
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/580_classified_bsw.jpg
OC here is meant "real OC", which is equal to LN2/DICE cooling level :)
For any kind of aircooling/watercooling/chilled/phase (-50c range) - using OC mode is not necessary.
When you switch to OC next things happen:
Activating tuned BIOS without any kind of throttling, overheat protection, overvoltage protection.
Enabling EVBot interface operation for voltage settings control. OC mode showed on back of card by RED LED, Normal - by GREEN.
Using card on aircooling/H2O with OC mode switch can be dangerous if excessive temperature will be reached on GPU/VRM, because of no protection enabled :D.
■ For best OC on air recommended to have good enclosure with enough airflow to VGA area. With good GPU it's quite possible to get 1GHz GPU clocks with just stock cooling.
Prepare card
Ok let's start. There are four versions of EVGA GeForce GTX 580 Classified available to sale, but all them are based on same design, so everything covered here can be applied to any of models.
Overclockers will probably use lowest tier aircooled 1.5GB variant, because of it's lower price. So I chosen 1586 to show general idea.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card1.jpg
Let's take a look on aircooled model. High airflow I/O shield bracket removed on pic already, but production boards have them as usual.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card2.jpg
We have simple card without fancy backplate, because in tight 3/4-way SLI backplate reduce amount of air between cards, which can lead to worse aircooling performance/decrease of overclock.
Cooler made in blower style to throw heated air away from PC case internals, helping to reduce temperature of motherboard, CPUs, memory and storage. Also turbine blower increased in size to have bigger
margin in tuning (bigger size -> more airflow with same rotation speed). Those who want silent operation - may reduce fanspeed, even on low settings it's more than enough to cool card during heavy gaming.
Those who want to bench/pre-test GPU on air can go 100% fan, which will deliver powerful cooling with drawback as audible noise. In OC mode forces cooling to high speed.
Main target of GTX 580 Classified is to power users, serious gamers and overclockers, so design kept as strong as possible on features like good cooling performance, stable operation and easiness of overclocking.
Those who want quiet system should consider watercooling as an good option.
And because of powerful VRM PCB size was increased too. Card is 280mm long, same as GTX590, but more wide, except SLI connector area. All GTX 580 Classifieds can run 2/3/4-way SLI with hardbridges without any need
of modifications, straight from the box.
Also there are two universal Dual-link DVI outputs and EVBOT Link. NVIDIA GF110 GPU supports only two display outputs at same time, so extra outputs are not much needed on GTX 580's anyway. HDMI connection is easy to do by simple and cheap HDMI-DVI passive adapters.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card3.jpg
After removing fansink we can start preparing for subzero cooling. I will show how to apply extreme kit and Kingpincooling.com Tek9 FAT LN2 cooling block on GPU.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card4.jpg
Installation is easy, first mount VRM cooling heatsink, which will be in great help to cool power converter components when overclocking GPU with more than 1.4V.
We used DirectFET MOSFET package, which have package top as metal electrode, which is under voltage. So thermal pads is a must here, to prevent shorting components and killing card.
Free hint: if you don't want to spend extra money on extreme cooling kit - you may cut original mem/VRM combined cooling plate to separate VRM part, just like you did on card of other vendors before.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card5.jpg
Mount heatsink by four screws and make sure there is good and tight fit. Then you can mount GPU protection bracket.
Metal bracket keeps card PCB from bending when heavy force applied by LN2 container mount. Having tight and firm mount of cooling is essential to get decent overclocking performance,
and protection bracket not used GPU BGA soldering to board is very easy to break or crack. Extreme overclockers know this problem very well when card worked perfectly during LN2 session but went dead/artifacting right after that. We address this issue to ensure long and happy life of GTX 580 Classified under extreme conditions.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card6.jpg
After mounting these two components - we are pretty much ready to start.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card7.jpg
Here most of extreme guys have their own insulation and preparation technique, some using Blutack, others K-flex sheets and so on.
You can go any way you want, key here is just to keep as small air access to PCB as possible, and protect components and PCB from water exposure.
I will just show fast and dirty way with using only vaseline + some K-Flex on LN2 container. It worked well during few tens of 1-2hrs sessions even with full -196c pot temps.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card8.jpg
First grease front side, keep few mm thick layer of vaseline everywhere except GPU and PCIe edge contact area.
Then melt vaseline with +50-+70c heat from heatgun or hairdryer. It will get under memory BGA and in narrow areas between SMDs, preventing water to soak into.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card9.jpg
Same operation for back of the card. You may leave open PCB areas without components free from grease, PCB is protected anyway by solder mask.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card10.jpg
Now mount LN2 container and prepare system. System must be protected from any possible water spilling from videocard to motherboard. Also PCIe slot must be insulated carefully. Snow or ice in PCIe or near it will prevent videocard from being detected and other session-stopper problems, like link width or PCIe speed descrese.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card11.jpg
I used EVGA P67 FTW board here with 2600K CPU as a test system. As you can see, everything covered by multiple layers of thick papertowels.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card12.jpg
I also added thin towels around LN2 containers, which are helpful to catch any water from thermos when few hours of pouring. You don't worry about drops of water anymore.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card13.jpg
After inspection that everything done right - you are ready to start and push card as hard as you can :)
Few more notes:
1.5GB cards use Samsung ICs for memory
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/sams.jpg
while 3GB models stick to Hynix
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/hynx.jpg
I tested both types of memory for overclocking and reached similar performance, but Hynix needed little bit more voltage.
Hints on preparations
TBD
Optimal operation conditions
TBD
Memory overclocking.
For 1200MHz on Samsung usually 1700-1750mV was enough, while for Hynix that needed 1750-1800.
For 1250MHz both types was happy to run on 1750-1850mV range.
For 1300MHz Samsung took 1800-1850mV, but Hynix required close to 1900mV.
For 1350+MHz Samsung asked for 1950mV, while Hynix chips demand 2000-2050mV.
And as usual, not all cards can overclock same, both GPU and memory domains overclocking depend on actual sample.
Software & BIOS & Tools
Results
TBD
Reviews
Classified HOF
TBA
Intro
Most of "professional" overclockers get used to receive confidential OC guides for different videocard and motherboard OC experience. By wording professional i meant here those people who
get benefits or samples for their testing and extreme overclocking events and gatherings. Usually there are always some hints and/or tools which are not public showed to fellow overclockers.
But from other side, I was also on side of pure power users, who are used to get stuff done by themselves first, sometimes with small help from outside.
That's in my meaning, PURE overclocking and tweaking, to understand the basics, then to apply discovered theory on practice, and finally get some results. Results by itself is
not even much important, but fun and process of achievement is the target. So to encourage those who want push Classified 580 beyond borders I will share some hits here, which
I discovered during few month of testing card. Overclockers are free to repost this data, but I would be thankful if they could keep original link to KPC and evga.com forums intact.
First, few words about most of overclockers/gamers who may want to overclock this card without crazy extreme stuff.
Overclocking with stock cooling, aircooling or watercooling is generally same as other GTX 580 cards, with few notes:
■ All three PCIe power plugs must be connected (8pin + 8pin + 6pin)
That's going from hardwired VRM curcuitry used. During extreme overclocking with GPU voltage above 1.4V GTX580 can take more than 700W (http://kingpincooling.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1203) of power, pushing power supply +12V rails to their limits on most of 1k-1.2kW models. So if we have just two rails from PSU connected to such overclocked monster - they can reach shutdown trigger by OCP, which will make overclocking session end. So extra 6-pin plug is there to give user ability to connect third rail to make power distribution on PSU rails easier.
■ DO NOT switch to OC mode until you want to use EVBot (even if you running subzero chilled/phasechange).
OC mode is dedicated specially for deep subzero temperatures below -50°C, when you actually need disabling protection functions like OCP, OVP.
Also OC mode blocks GPU from communication with VRM, so voltage control is fixed to EVBot settings and do not change during whole run.
That was made to allow even beginner extreme overclockers reach decent results without any need of soldering or other geek stuff, but as drawback increase risk if card overheat ;)
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/580_classified_bsw.jpg
OC here is meant "real OC", which is equal to LN2/DICE cooling level :)
For any kind of aircooling/watercooling/chilled/phase (-50c range) - using OC mode is not necessary.
When you switch to OC next things happen:
Activating tuned BIOS without any kind of throttling, overheat protection, overvoltage protection.
Enabling EVBot interface operation for voltage settings control. OC mode showed on back of card by RED LED, Normal - by GREEN.
Using card on aircooling/H2O with OC mode switch can be dangerous if excessive temperature will be reached on GPU/VRM, because of no protection enabled :D.
■ For best OC on air recommended to have good enclosure with enough airflow to VGA area. With good GPU it's quite possible to get 1GHz GPU clocks with just stock cooling.
Prepare card
Ok let's start. There are four versions of EVGA GeForce GTX 580 Classified available to sale, but all them are based on same design, so everything covered here can be applied to any of models.
Overclockers will probably use lowest tier aircooled 1.5GB variant, because of it's lower price. So I chosen 1586 to show general idea.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card1.jpg
Let's take a look on aircooled model. High airflow I/O shield bracket removed on pic already, but production boards have them as usual.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card2.jpg
We have simple card without fancy backplate, because in tight 3/4-way SLI backplate reduce amount of air between cards, which can lead to worse aircooling performance/decrease of overclock.
Cooler made in blower style to throw heated air away from PC case internals, helping to reduce temperature of motherboard, CPUs, memory and storage. Also turbine blower increased in size to have bigger
margin in tuning (bigger size -> more airflow with same rotation speed). Those who want silent operation - may reduce fanspeed, even on low settings it's more than enough to cool card during heavy gaming.
Those who want to bench/pre-test GPU on air can go 100% fan, which will deliver powerful cooling with drawback as audible noise. In OC mode forces cooling to high speed.
Main target of GTX 580 Classified is to power users, serious gamers and overclockers, so design kept as strong as possible on features like good cooling performance, stable operation and easiness of overclocking.
Those who want quiet system should consider watercooling as an good option.
And because of powerful VRM PCB size was increased too. Card is 280mm long, same as GTX590, but more wide, except SLI connector area. All GTX 580 Classifieds can run 2/3/4-way SLI with hardbridges without any need
of modifications, straight from the box.
Also there are two universal Dual-link DVI outputs and EVBOT Link. NVIDIA GF110 GPU supports only two display outputs at same time, so extra outputs are not much needed on GTX 580's anyway. HDMI connection is easy to do by simple and cheap HDMI-DVI passive adapters.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card3.jpg
After removing fansink we can start preparing for subzero cooling. I will show how to apply extreme kit and Kingpincooling.com Tek9 FAT LN2 cooling block on GPU.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card4.jpg
Installation is easy, first mount VRM cooling heatsink, which will be in great help to cool power converter components when overclocking GPU with more than 1.4V.
We used DirectFET MOSFET package, which have package top as metal electrode, which is under voltage. So thermal pads is a must here, to prevent shorting components and killing card.
Free hint: if you don't want to spend extra money on extreme cooling kit - you may cut original mem/VRM combined cooling plate to separate VRM part, just like you did on card of other vendors before.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card5.jpg
Mount heatsink by four screws and make sure there is good and tight fit. Then you can mount GPU protection bracket.
Metal bracket keeps card PCB from bending when heavy force applied by LN2 container mount. Having tight and firm mount of cooling is essential to get decent overclocking performance,
and protection bracket not used GPU BGA soldering to board is very easy to break or crack. Extreme overclockers know this problem very well when card worked perfectly during LN2 session but went dead/artifacting right after that. We address this issue to ensure long and happy life of GTX 580 Classified under extreme conditions.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card6.jpg
After mounting these two components - we are pretty much ready to start.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card7.jpg
Here most of extreme guys have their own insulation and preparation technique, some using Blutack, others K-flex sheets and so on.
You can go any way you want, key here is just to keep as small air access to PCB as possible, and protect components and PCB from water exposure.
I will just show fast and dirty way with using only vaseline + some K-Flex on LN2 container. It worked well during few tens of 1-2hrs sessions even with full -196c pot temps.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card8.jpg
First grease front side, keep few mm thick layer of vaseline everywhere except GPU and PCIe edge contact area.
Then melt vaseline with +50-+70c heat from heatgun or hairdryer. It will get under memory BGA and in narrow areas between SMDs, preventing water to soak into.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card9.jpg
Same operation for back of the card. You may leave open PCB areas without components free from grease, PCB is protected anyway by solder mask.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card10.jpg
Now mount LN2 container and prepare system. System must be protected from any possible water spilling from videocard to motherboard. Also PCIe slot must be insulated carefully. Snow or ice in PCIe or near it will prevent videocard from being detected and other session-stopper problems, like link width or PCIe speed descrese.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card11.jpg
I used EVGA P67 FTW board here with 2600K CPU as a test system. As you can see, everything covered by multiple layers of thick papertowels.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card12.jpg
I also added thin towels around LN2 containers, which are helpful to catch any water from thermos when few hours of pouring. You don't worry about drops of water anymore.
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/card13.jpg
After inspection that everything done right - you are ready to start and push card as hard as you can :)
Few more notes:
1.5GB cards use Samsung ICs for memory
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/sams.jpg
while 3GB models stick to Hynix
http://xdevs.com/evga/580c/hynx.jpg
I tested both types of memory for overclocking and reached similar performance, but Hynix needed little bit more voltage.
Hints on preparations
TBD
Optimal operation conditions
TBD
Memory overclocking.
For 1200MHz on Samsung usually 1700-1750mV was enough, while for Hynix that needed 1750-1800.
For 1250MHz both types was happy to run on 1750-1850mV range.
For 1300MHz Samsung took 1800-1850mV, but Hynix required close to 1900mV.
For 1350+MHz Samsung asked for 1950mV, while Hynix chips demand 2000-2050mV.
And as usual, not all cards can overclock same, both GPU and memory domains overclocking depend on actual sample.
Software & BIOS & Tools
Results
TBD
Reviews
Classified HOF
TBA