Dragon F1 Extreme extension mounting guide for Phenom CPU
Unpack the F1 Extreme contents + the extension and lay out all the hardware in your work area. The F1 Extreme kit consists of a solid copper F1 cpu pot, upper plastic and lower aluminum hold down brackets, rubber backplate insulator pad, threaded rods(4), springs(4), shoulder spacers(8), and brass thumb nuts(4).
Next steps are to be done AFTER you have installed temperature probe in the bottom of the pot as described here, and have fully prepared the motherboard for condensation prevention. There are many ways to do this such as dielectric grease around the socket area both front and back of the board, hard conformal coating/ sealer, kneaded eraser or putty, etc. Which ever method you choose will protect the sensitive smd components around the socket from cold and moisture which can lead to poorly performing vreg circuitry and/or permanent damage. The areas most exposed to moisture and generally extreme conditions are in red both on the front and back of the motherboard in diagrams 2 & 3. These are the most vulnerable spots and with the extreme temperatures used for Phenom overclocking, extra special care must be taken. Insert threaded rods by fully screwing them into appropriate mounting hole locations on the aluminum lower bracket. In this example, we will use the Am2 /Am3 mounting configuration. Take the rubber insulator pad and mark off then cut the mounting hole locations on the pad. This is best done by simply placing the bracket on top of the pad and then marking off the holes through the bracket before making your holes in the rubber using 1/8 or smaller drill bit. Now you can slide it down up against the bracket (diag. 4) and everything fits good ready to be installed on motherboard.
For an extra layer of protection, place a 1/8-1/4 inch thick foam gasket and some heavy duty paper towel the same diameter as the rubber pad between the pad and motherboard when you slide it through the backside of the board (Diag. 5 & 6). Once backplate and rods are mounted, set board on flat level surface and prepare around the cpu socket for the container. Again, the use of a dielectric grease, conformal coating, or pliable putty in and around the socket is highly recommended. Make sure that the socket area is sealed off as much as possible from outside air. You can accomplish this by compressing layers of foam. For this example, we'll use some armaflex tape to make a foam gasket first layer.
Using 1/2 inch foam or other suitable insulation, make another socket gasket to go between the 1st gasket and cpu container. Cut out center of gasket about the same size as ouside diameter of F1. Make room for any other misc. components around the socket for a nice snug fit. As another added layer of protection, use a paper towel gasket underneath to trap mositure before it reaches the socket on warmups (diagrams 7 ,8, & 9).
Cut a piece of the round tube insulation included with the unit so that it is the length of the F1's bottom to the relief for the upper hold down bracket/ extension (diag. 11). This will ensure that there is adequate compression of the foam in and around the socket when you place the hold down and extension on. The key is to minimize and seal off the air space in there. Now place the foam covered container on the cpu between the rods after applying heatsink compound. Place the hold down on top of the unit and secure it with the shoulder spacers and springs. Be sure to tighten all the springs evenly until the spacers come close to butting up against each other. Now the rig is ready to bench.
As a last measure to stop any moisture from getting to the motherboard, wrap the whole assembly in some good absorbent paper towel or shop towel and use a rubber band to hold it on. The hold down will freeze up during LN2 operation and alot of the ice will melt during warmup. The wrap will sponge it all up.